You would think that a gluten-free beer made from sweet potatoes and molasses would be awesome. You would be horribly, bitterly, tongue-scrapingly wrong.

Known in my house as "owl beer," this white ale is everything Blue Moon aspires to. Crisp coriander and cardamom with a hint of lemon that doesn't evoke furniture polish.

This dark ale is hoppy, bitter, slightly oily. Strong sorghum and hops influence, drinks hot (almost like a young wine).

Gluten-free pale ale has a familiar flavor, similar in balance to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. So far, the most solidly beer-flavored of my experiments. Excellent when very cold.

Gluten-free Tripel with sweet, silky character. Made from millet, buckwheat, rice, and sorghum, but without the brutal bitter happiness of most sorghum-based GF brews.

Out of the can this gluten-free offering looks promising, with good carbonation and a clean, crisp pour. The head dissipates quickly in big bubbles, leaving behind a "beery," bitter, stale ale whose aftertaste is as soapy as the head appeared.

Gluten-free* offering from Widmer Brothers is inoffensive, low alcohol, tastes like it used to be beer. Reminds me of MGD Lite. Better than many sorghum-based GF beers, by virtue of beer ingredients. *Made from barley and processed to 20ppm or less, boasts specific gluten levels available by bottle code.